Tesse Delivers Sleek European Sensibilities to West Hollywood

Say hello to Tesse, a new dining establishment perched atop Sunset Blvd at the end of La Cienega Boulevard, an area long considered one of LA’s toughest places to open a restaurant. Bill Chait credits Night + Market for elevating the area’s scene, though others like Eveleigh, The Church Key, and Sushi Park have had varying degrees of success here. Once Tesse opens on June 19, it could herald a shift in Sunset Strip’s reputation.

Pork chop with charred carrots and boudin noir

Pork chop with charred carrots and boudin noir

Chait returns to Los Angeles after leaving a slew of restaurants he helped build, such as Bestia, Republique, and The Rose. He’s partnered with Jordan Ogron, who helped open Bestia, and talented chef Raphael Francois, who worked at multiple Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe and also top places in D.C. and New York. Filipino chef and LA-native Sally Camacho Muellerhelms the dessert side of things. 

Delice with fromage blanc, Harry’s berries, and Thai basil

Delice with fromage blanc, Harry’s berries, and Thai basil

First, the space, designed by Alexis Readinger of Preen, Inc. It’s striking and modern, with clean lines and warm touches. A teak bar greets diners upon entering the room, with tan leather banquettes, sleek woods, and patterned tile accents encompassing the main dining space. There’s a heavy futuristic slant with a floating cork ceiling that gives the large room a more intimate feel.

The food starts with a strong charcuterie selection, a nod to the term delicatesse, which means “delicious,” but also refers to forcemeat and cured sausages. Think saucisse de Lyon, or pork sausage with Madeira and pistachio; or duck and foie gras terrine with figs and Armagnac. The wide-ranging apps and mains hit a slew of French flavors and California ingredients, from crispy veal sweetbreads and blue crab “simplissime” of whipped potatoes and tarragon to pork belly cavatelli and a 34 ounce dry-aged ribeye. On the sweet side, there’s a coconut necter mousse custard with passionfruit curd and a duck egg crème brûlée with almond tuile. There’s plenty to enjoy and a bit of something for everyone, from Francophiles to those looking for seasonally-driven fare. 

Bucatini with bone marrow, duck prosciutto, and brown butter shallots  Wonho Frank Lee

Bucatini with bone marrow, duck prosciutto, and brown butter shallots

Wonho Frank Lee

Tesse. 8500 W. Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90069.

Dinnerware ceramic vessels by Match Stoneware.

 

Match Stoneware LLC